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Sunday, November 13, 2011

Gee, you smell terrific!

Providence Perfume Co., an all natural perfumes company


In a recent interview, I was asked the question: "How do you know when you've created a remarkable scent?  How do you know when you've hit a proverbial perfume home-run?"  I was perplexed.  I paused, and then realized I had no idea what to say.  I stumbled a bit and then awkwardly fell back on the only truthful answer I could give: "There's no way to tell."

I wish I was constantly stopped and asked by strangers, "What is the incredible scent you are wearing?" or told, "Gee, you smell terrific!"  I'm not.  In all fairness, I wear less perfume than I used to.  I spend so much time blending, and working on perfumes I can't wear fragrance that will interfere with my sense of smell.  I've made the mistake of using a scented lotion or shower gel and then applying a perfume I'm working on.  I'll puzzle over the fact it smells differently than it did the day before, only to realize I've applied a scented lotion that morning.  I've learned to be careful with what I wear when I'll be working.  I do wear fragrances when I go out to dinner or to meet friends for a drink, and sometimes just to run errands especially if I'm feeling slovenly.  As if a spritz or two of perfume will make strangers forget I'm wearing yoga pants and uncombed hair!  I do love perfume, however I'm now careful of when and where I apply it - ah, the classic perfumers dilemma.




On a humorous note, I have had the opposite reaction to being perfumed.  Recently, I was pouring large batches of solid perfumes for a wholesale order.  I had been working on filling the solids all day and was pouring larger quantities than normal.  The hours flew by and before I knew it, it was time to pick my kids up from kindergarten and I was late.  I raced to the car and drove quickly to the school to pick them up.  As I exited the car, the teacher's aide who was waiting with the children physically recoiled from me.  In my rush, I realized I was covered in traces of assorted oils and had spilled some balm on my jeans.  I was an overly scented hot mess.  She smiled weakly and thrust the children towards me who happily hugged me.  They are accustomed to their sometimes malodorous mommy.  As I drove away I tried to imagine what the teacher's aide thought of my disheveled appearance and pungent aroma.  I pictured her walking into the teacher's lounge and stating: "Wow - did you guys meet that mom who wears WAY too much perfume?  She reeks!"

Back to the topic at hand.  How do you know when you've created an amazing, best selling natural perfume?  Despite my initial stumble, the interviewer did pose an interesting question.  Maybe she hoped to hear it was easy for me to recognize when a perfume would be a bestseller.  I would finish the perfume, put away my supplies and spend the rest of the day in a satisfied state.



Maybe some perfumers just know.  Maybe there would be a universal chorus of accolades.  Friends, family, critics would unanimously decide the scent was perfect, remarkable, wonderful!  Nothing could be further from the truth.

When I blended my perfume Gypsy, I really loved it.  I was thrilled it aged well, deepening and becoming richer and smoother.  I only modified the perfume slightly from my initial blend, which is unusual for me.  I usually make many modifications until I get the perfume just the way I want it.  Once the modifications have been aged, even more revisions are made.  It's a process.  With Gypsy, I felt I had created a good perfume that needed little revision.  I was confident it was well blended, and well balanced.  When I had friends and family sample Gypsy their replies were luke-warm.  Nobody disliked it, but no rave reviews were received.  I was puzzled as I found Gypsy really wonderful.  Rich and retro, with a bit of an original modern day spin.  Pink lotus, tonka, lavender  . . . many notes in sum, harmonizing in a smooth velvety manner.  Fast forward a year and Gypsy has become one of my bestselling natural perfumes.



I describe this scenario as it answers the question the interviewer asked.  I answered there was no way to know when I had created a "bestseller."  There was no initial chorus of compliments, no immediate sense of having created a "home-run."  I liked it.  I thought it was lovely.  Did I know it was going to sell well?  No.  Did I know critics and reviewers would like it?  No.  And while I do like getting feedback on my natural perfumes and packaging and promotions, in the end it all comes down to me, and my sense of what I think is good, what I think works.  I'm not always right, but I'm always the most important opinion.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Providence Perfume Co. November Newsletter-for fine fragrance fans seeking sales

Our November Newsletter is here.  Read all about it: including fantastic discounts, sales info and "fragrant friday" deals!







Friday, October 28, 2011

Mini Review of The Little Book of Perfumes by Turin & Sanchez



Providence Perfume Co. specializes in natural perfume.

It's not every day I'm offered a free pre-release copy of a book - let alone one about Perfume.  Needless to say, I was suspicious but hopeful when I replied to the email I was sent by a Penguin publicist requesting I review a new book.  My copy of The Little Book of Perfumes the Hundred Classics by Tuca Turin and Tania Sanchez arrived a few days later.  As I'm a big fan of the original book PERFUMES-The A-Z Guide by Turin and Sanchez, I was excited to read their new pared down perfume primer. Note to publicists: this is an incredibly smart way to generate buzz in the perfume community-very smart indeed!


First, the cover and design of the book is eye catching. A graphic black and white printed cover opens to hot pink liner pages.  Snazzy.


As I thumbed through the pages reading reviews of the 100 Classic Perfumes, I was most happy to note that Luca and Turin devoted a good deal of content to dealing with the revisions of many of these classic perfumes due to IFRA regulations.  Many of these classic perfumes have been so heavily revised they are but a shallow remembrance of their former greatness.  I appreciated that the authors were careful to re-sniff the revised 2011 perfume versions with many of the natural ingredients removed and meticulously note the changes brought about by IFRA's restrictions.  


When teaching my Introductory Natural Perfume Blending classes, one of the topics that most surprises students is the modern revisions to classic perfumes.  When I explain that the current versions of the favorite perfumes, perfumes they have strong scent memories attached to; fragrances worn by their mother or grandfather will never smell the same they are shocked and sometimes angry.  I was pleased the authors focused on these changes and the foreward written by Tania Sanchez speaks volumes on the topic of regulation.  


No Oakmoss Allowed!



Along these lines, my favorite review in The Little Book of Perfumes is written on a perfume that many consider the holy grail of classics: Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue.  The review of the original perfume is as one might expect, glowing.  Turin writes, "This is Guerlain the virtual pastry chef at his best, with a fragrance that teeters on the edge of the edible for hours without missing a step.  If you're Red Hot Riding Hood and a hungry wolf just rang the bell, this is the one for you."


Regarding the revised 2011 version of L'Heure Bleue Sanchez writes, "A pretty stranger has come in claiming to be your best beloved.  It is hard to be angry with her.  She is clearly out of her mind; they look nothing alike.  You sit and wait patiently for your love to turn up.  The windows go dark, night after night while the stranger smiles and dawdles, waiting for you to forget.  Can you?"  I love this review, witty and making it's point clearly.  Please stop messing with our perfumes!  Let the consumer decide.  Excessive regulations on possible allergens are not the answer.

Providence Perfume Co. specializes in natural perfume and in natural fragrance, you can contact us at providenceperfume@gmail.com.

Friday, October 21, 2011

Helter Skelter - losing your mind while running a small business

Helter-Skelter: adv. 
chaotic, disorganized, every which way, hurried, pell mell





I stare groggily at the blank check I'm writing.  It's very early in the morning and my children swirl their oatmeal around in their bowls, while poking each other.  I can't remember what I'm writing the check for.  A field trip? A utility bill?  I stare blankly at the check waiting for my mind to start working.  It's 6:45 a.m. on a gray rainy Wednesday morning, and I think I've lost my mind.


Losing your mind, or memory while running a small business can be disastrous.  I'll admit, I've never been the most organized person, but lately it's gotten worse.  I'm juggling so many balls at once, that I'm bound to start dropping a few.  Recent examples of me being absentminded are rampant: forgetting doctor's appointments, forgetting to reply to important emails, forgetting to place orders for business supplies, not keeping up with social media like I used to, forgetting family members birthdays.  Some of these mistakes seem small but they have a large impact on my life and my business.  They result in negative impressions, loss of money, sales and exposure.  





So, what to do?  Addressing the problem is the first step, right?  I realize that I'm frazzled.  The small part of my personality that is controlling and a bit of a perfectionist must release the reigns.  I'm trying, now unsuccessfully to do too much.  I've made a realization . . . (dramatic pause) I think I need some HELP.  I think trying to do it all myself is starting to backfire.  Initially doing it all myself was the best and only option.  Now, I'm not so sure.  A wonderful fellow perfumer once gave me a great bit of advice regarding running a business, "Do everything you can yourself -BUT- know what you can't do, or aren't good it and have someone else do that."  Maybe it's time that I decide to assign someone (other than myself) some duties.  Maybe it's time to hire an intern, or one of the PR agencies that keep contacting me, or a sales rep. Then, maybe the next time the lights flicker, I won't worry I forgot to pay the electric bill :)

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Happy October Sale!

It's Fall.  I woke this morning to the sounds of honking, not unusual here in the city.  The honking got louder and louder and I sleepily rubbed my eyes and tried to figure out where the noise was coming from.  Louder and louder, closer and closer the honking escalated.  I realized it was the sound of a massive flock of Canadian geese flying over the house headed south!  I raced to window to see the tail end of the large V-formation of birds as they sailed noisily out of site.  The formation was so large it cast a shadow upon the house and small backyard.  It was truly an incredible sight!


Glorious autumn in New England.  My favorite season.  Gone is the humidity, and the ever present late summer thunderstorms.  The air is cool, the leaves are crisp, the apples crunch and there is a hint of frost in the air.  Glorious autumn in New England!



I am celebrating the season with the launch of a new website.  The new site is cleaner looking and easier to navigate.  Please visit and let me know what you think.  For a limited time, you can get 15% off your order by entering discount code NEWSITE when checking out.  Sale ends October 10th, so if you've been meaning to try some of our fabulous natural perfumes, here's your chance to try them at a fantastic discount.


Our October Newsletter is available HERE and contains more information. 



Saturday, October 1, 2011

Brave New Scents: A Natural Perfumers Guild Project


The Outlaw Perfumers are honoring the aromatics of the 21st Century
Providence Perfume Co. -  All natural perfume

I am participating along with 10 other professional perfumers and bloggers in honoring rare, new botanical ingredients.  These botanicals are new additions to the perfumer's palette, and have only recently been distilled and made available for perfumery.  Many are rare, costly and in small supply.  We create our brave new scents as a tribute to these incredible essences and those renegades and risktakers who travel the world to distill them.

My contribution to the project is a perfume called Jessamine, a tribute to the state flower of South Carolina where my mother resides.  Jessamine is a southern inspired citrus jasmine inspired by the yellow jessamine that threads it's vine like flowers throughout the fences and gardens of the southern states.

Yellow Jessamine


Jessamine

  • Top Notes of Cedrat, Yuzu and Galbanum
  • Heart Notes of Jasmine Auriculatum, Aglaia, Linden Blossom and Pink Lotus
  • Base Notes of Orris, Hay and Tahitian Vanilla Bean Tincture
    Yellow Jessamine is the state flower of South Carolina.  It’s aroma is an exquisite blend of jasmine and citrus notes and grows wild throughout the South.  Alas, all parts of the vine like plant can be toxic and often under pollinated as bees shy away from it’s alkaline nectar.  My interpretation of Jessamine combines Cedrat with it’s candied lemon peel aroma with rare Jasmine Auriculatum, sparkling Aglaia flowers and a soft cashmere orris vanilla base.  Evoking Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, southern drawls, Jessamine covered verandas and the hum of cicadas.  Y’all please enjoy.


I made a very limited amount of Jessamine eau de parfum.  It is available online at www.providenceperfume.com/shop in 6 ml. atomizers and deluxe samples.

Participating Perfumers Include:

Ambrosia Jones, Perfume by Nature
Anya McCoy, Anya's Garden
Charna Ethier, Providence Perfume Co.
Christi Meshell, House of Matriarch
Elise Pearlstine, Belly Flowers
JoAnne Bassett, JoAnne Bassett Perfumes
Rohanna Goodwin Smith, Ascent Natural Perfumes
Adam Gottschalk, Lord's Jester Inc.

Participating Bloggers/Critics:

All I am a Redhead

Contact Providence Perfume Co. at providenceperfume@gmail.com.
We specialize in organic and botanical perfume. Coming soon, a blog on organic perfume.





Sunday, September 11, 2011

The Nitty Gritty of Retail Packaging

Barcodes, boxes and bills.  I'm up to my eyeballs in them.  The following includes some basic tips I've learned from my recent experiences in developing custom packaging and retailing my perfumes in a larger venue.  Please note, I'm not claiming expertise!  These are tips from a beginner venturing into the mass retail market.



In a recent meeting with a large retailer, a bunch of retail and financial terms were bandied about.  I sat in between the buyer and department manager and realized my head was bobbing back and forth as if I were watching a tennis match as they spoke about my product and it's viability.  The terms included things such as price point, ROI, barcodes, package security, scannability, market profile, display units and cost effectiveness.  I made mental notes to google the terms I was hazy on as soon as I got home.  I smiled knowingly, took notes, agreed to everything, shook hands with confidence and walked to my car.  I left the meeting sweating profusely and immediately began working on acquiring the three main elements I would need to secure my product a spot on the shelves of the retailer.

They were:

1. Order custom perfume boxes ASAP
2. Order barcodes for perfume boxes ASAP
3. Order custom display unit ASAP

Did I mention ASAP?  Despite how hard I worked, it all took months.  Months of calling suppliers, carpenters and companies.  Lots of emails that started with, "RE: Order placed 3 weeks ago" and "Please confirm delivery date" which leads me to point #1

1) Despite the claims of printing companies, your boxes, labels, signage etc. will take significantly longer than promised.  Does the website claim your short-run boxes will print in three days?  Add at least six days to the equation.  There will be questions with graphics, custom die manufacture delays, someone will go on vacation and your "artwork approval" email will get mysteriously lost in cyberheaven or hell.

2) The price you are quoted for your boxes will most likely NOT be the price you actually pay.  Did you need a non standard size box?  A non standard size box seems to be any size box other than a bar soap box. Did you want foil? UV Coating? Do you want to order less than 250 qty?  All this costs extra.  While I didn't get all the bells and whistles, I did have to pay for a custom die cut box and foil die cut.  These are one time fees and when I reorder boxes I won't have to pay the die fees again, but trust me they sure add up.

3) Be sure to ask your sales rep about the different materials available for boxes.  Some companies have lots of different paperboards available, some have just a few.  I had my heart set on using 100% recycled material for my boxes, but when the sample arrived it was so thin and fragile I worried about the safety of my product.  Anything heavy seemed it would fall out the bottom of the box and the rep admitted they had some issues with "shelf degradation."  Another term I was unfamiliar with, but understood to mean "These boxes don't last long on retail shelves."  I ended up using 60% recycled material as the box material was much thicker and sturdier.

4) Should you have multiple fragrances or product and not be able to afford to order 100 qty. of each scent, you will have to modify the box with a label.  This is another additional expense.  Pay close attention to the size and color of the sticker you order as you will want to make sure it fits and matches the pantone color of your boxes. Should you order your labels from a separate company you'll want to make sure they arrive around the same time as your boxes or you'll spend a week waiting for them and will have to pay extra to have them overnighted to you so you can make your deadline with your retailer.

5) Keep in mind that white boxes and white labels won't always match.  Apparently there is a wide variety of shades retailers consider "white."  Additionally white boxes tend to look dirty quickly on store shelves.  If you have your heart set on white boxes you may want to pay extra for a coating to help protect them from discoloration.

6) Size matters!  Believe it or not, there is a tipping point in the size of a boxed item in relation to it's ability to be shoplifted.  My retailer pointed out there was concern with the small size of the perfume they had chosen to carry.  Apparently things that are the size of chapsticks or lipsticks are hot items, meaning they are frequently stolen.  I purposely had my smallest size perfume box designed to be larger than the perfume inside.  This decision is not without it's issues as the perfume does jiggle in the box a bit.  This could be resolved with a custom insert from the box company ensuring the perfume does not move in the box for an additional fee.  Needless to say, my perfume will be jiggling a bit as I did not spring for the expensive custom insert.  On a positive note, I have now (hopefully) reached the magic box size where my product appears too large to be easily swiped.  Fingers crossed.

Moving on to barcodes.  I knew absolutely nothing about barcodes and had to learn quickly.  Should a retailer request you provide barcodes, here's what you need to ask.  "Do you want each of my products to have a separate barcode so you can track which scent is selling for ease in reordering?"  In my case, the retailer is ordering one size only of perfume in six different varieties.  They are allowing me to initially only use one barcode on all my products as they are all the same price.  If you have different sizes or prices you would have to purchase separate barcodes for each product, to scan appropriately.  Most retailers would require each scent to have a different barcode, for ease of tracking and reordering.

1) Do not pay more than $10.00 per barcode!  When I searched the web I found many barcode retailers selling barcodes for $25-$100.00 each.  One site with the most expensive barcodes touts the fact they are "recommended" by The Wall Street Journal and uses this to entice customers.  Many of these sites use scare tactics to push small business owners into purchasing expensive barcodes.  I ordered my barcodes from bar codes talk for $10.00 and instantly received my barcode files in three formats (jpeg, eps, and tiff) and US and EUR formats.  So far so good.  No issues.

2) Once you've received your barcode(s) you then forward them on to the retailer for entry into their system.  This will seem to take forever.  The retailer attaches the price to the barcode so when the item is scanned it rings up as the correct price.  Then forward onto your graphic designer to incorporate into your box design.

3) Do not reduce the size of your barcode beyond 1.17" x .81"  Barcodes come sized as 1.5"x 1" If you have a small box you will be tempted to shrink the ugly barcode to fit an inconspicuous spot on your box.  Just don't shrink it too much or it won't scan.  Don't ask me how I know this as I will become bitter and cry :)



Moving onto the final challenge: your display unit.  (insert long drawn out sigh)  Your retailer may have some very specific ideas of how they would like your display to function.  In my case, they desired the tester bottles be glued into the display so they could not be stolen.  They also wanted the testers to NOT SPRAY, as this tends to permeate the aisles with scent.  This is an interesting conundrum as I spent a good deal of time contemplating how the customer would apply my perfume that was glued down and had no atomizer.  After wasting a few days researching metal leashes and collars--you know the ones they wrap around cameras and cell phones that retract? -- I realized this was beyond the scope and limited financial means of my small business.  I ended up using caps with dauber sticks attached.  I'm still not satisfied this application method is ideal, but it was the only solution I could come up with that fit my means.

1) Finding someone who will create a custom display for you can be a pain, especially if you have a variety of specific mediums, measurements and details you must comply with.

Most large companies have display units mass produced.  In my case, I had no display unit.  Most boutiques that carry my products prefer to display them as they please without a cumbersome display that may clash with their aesthetic.  Not having a display when meeting with the mass retailer was both a pro and con.  The manager told me that they often turn down vendors because they do not like their display.  Sometimes it was plastic, or tacky, or too large and carried too much back stock, or wouldn't fit on the shelving.  So, by not having a display unit already created, I was able to customize my unit to the retailer's specifications.  The downside to this is that you must customize the unit to the retailer's specifications. :)

2) Purchasing a very small number of custom displays can be very expensive.

When ordering a prototype display, you will pay . . .  a lot.  If you know a carpenter, woodworker, craftsperson, metalsmith etc. I recommend meeting with them and trying to negotiate a price.  Bring measurements and drawings.  Don't forget what sort of environment your display will be in.  My display was created with a closing hinged plexiglass cover to showcase backstock yet keep it from being easily stolen.  By working with a local craftsperson, you may be able to negotiate a better price for your displays later on should you like your prototype.  It's important to ask if they will be able to produce this display in small quantities for you and at what cost.  Also important to ask how long it will take to create your display.  Add 1-2 weeks to the time given.

If all else fails and you don't know anyone who might be able to create a small number of displays for you, etsy is a good place to visit.  There are a few carpenters who create and sell wooden displays on etsy who are willing to customize.  Don't forget to inquire about shipping costs for your finished display unit as they can be quite high.

3) Don't forget your signage!  Every display needs a sign.  Think of the relevant information you want to convey to the shopper.  Keep it short and sweet.  Who are you?  What are you selling?  How much does it cost?  You won't have much room to convey this information.

4) Think about the shape of your sign.  My graphic designer created a fantastic sign for my prototype display that had a semi-circle shape.  It was eye catching and I liked it.  When I went to have the sign printed I discovered that this shape was problematic.  I'm a tiny business and irregular shaped signs require--you guessed it--a custom die cut.  This is expensive and typical print runs for this type of sign run in the thousands.

I had my signage printed on foamboard at Staples for $12.00.  They were unable to cut the sign to the custom shape designed, so I had to cut the sign myself with an exact-o knife.  It came out . . . o.k.  It looks a little like an art project, which basically it was.  Lesson learned.  Next time, have a plain rectangular sign created eliminating the need for me to wield a razor blade and excessive cursing.

So, finally my display unit is finished.  I'm ridiculously proud of it.  I know how much time, effort and frankly money went into it's creation.  I try and show my new display unit off to friends and relatives any chance I get and receive a blank stare, not so subtle eye rolls and forced lukewarm enthusiasm.  That's o.k. with me.  I get it.  It's hard to get excited over a display and boxes.  They have no idea what a small micro business like mine goes through to make this happen.  It can be hard to compete with the sharks when you are just a little fish in a big ocean, but I'll keep swimming as fast as I can.


Eureka! The finished display unit


Wish me luck in my mass retail endeavor.  I may fail.  I may succeed.  At least I know I'm giving it my all.