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Wednesday, June 1, 2011

UNCORKED! A Natural Perfumers Guild Blogging Event

Celebrating the voices of the Natural Perfumers Guild members telling us all their inner stories of how they came to love natural aromatics *or* why they love natural perfumery

Providence Perfume Co. - We specialize in natural perfume

Extra, Extra!  Read All About It.  Click on the blog links below to discover each members personal story.  Participating Natural Perfumers Guild Member Blogs Include: 




A Personal Account of How I Began My Love Affair 
With Naturals 
by Charna Ethier
owner of Providence Perfume Co.



Growing up the child of hippie parents perhaps predetermined my affinity for all things natural.  It was what I knew.  I learned of squash blossoms, blackberries and maple syrup.  I was taught how to weed and mulch the garden at a young age.  I recognized the change of seasons by smell.  I could tell when autumn was arriving before the plants seemed to realize their imminent demise.  I could sniff the air and foretell an impending thunderstorm before the clouds started to gather.  I just knew when it was going to snow by the smell of the air.  



My parents had a farm (read commune) in rural New England.  Believe it or not, the name of the town in which my parents farm was located was called Unity.  I'm serious.  To get to the farm one must drive up an extremely steep dirt road called Straw Hill for miles.  Nestled at the top of the hill lay my parents farmstead.  I have bad memories of our clunky old VW Bug spinning it's tires on the snow covered road in winter, only to slide back down the steep icy hill.  Eventually my mother would smile as she haphazardly tried to keep the small car from ending up in the ditch, and tell us to pull our winter hats down and make sure our snowsuits were buttoned--we would be walking the rest of the way home.  Despite the cold long walk, what I remember most about those evenings was the clear night sky, the bright stars and moon, the smell of woodsmoke and wool as I breathed through my scarf, the crunch of the snow under my boots.



We always had lots of visitors, parties and animals.  Oftentimes these visitors would end up staying with us for months, even years.  These visitors brought new smells.  I remember Nag Champa incense, patchouli, Brylcreem and Charlie cologne.  New smells, exotic and unfamiliar.  I liked these smells but considered them potent and possibly dangerous.  This childhood connotation between unfamiliar scents and danger could be derived from a Charlie cologne wearing woman with long black hair who stayed with us during the summer of 1980.  She seemed potent and possibly dangerous to me.  She only smiled with her mouth, not her eyes and left abruptly one day leaving her dogeared copy of "The Modern Witch's Spellbook" on the back porch.



Now I have no back porch, but from my patio in Providence I still rejoice in the aromas of my surroundings, some natural and familiar such as the green scent of tomato leaves baking in the sun, some exotic such as the delicious scent of curry wafting from my neighbor's window.  I still get a thrill out of smelling everything.  I love scents and am drawn to sniffing everything I can get my hands on.  I love natural ingredients.  I love the multihued palette.  I love sampling rare, exotic botanicals I've never smelled.  Just as I did as a child, I seek out new smells, exotic and unfamiliar.  Sadly, I may not be able to travel to Thailand, but when I smell kaffir lime leaf I can almost imagine that I am there.

Contact us at: providenceperfume@gmail.com to learn more about our natural perfume.
Coming soon, our blog on organic perfume


Tuesday, May 31, 2011

New Body Oil Line Receives Rave Review from Beauty Huile



My recently released line of naturally perfumed body oils received rave reviews from Beauty Huile.  Editor N.K. is an oil enthusiast and expert on the science behind the health and beauty benefits of oils, so her enthusiastic review is incredibly flattering.  Click on the link below to read:

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Lilac Love and Lily Liability

Lily of the Valley - photo Charna Ethier

It's spring in New England!  The winter from hell is finally over and it's time to rejoice with sunshine and flowers.  To be fair, it's rained for days and the local weatherman is predicting thunderstorms and rain for the next week.  Despite this dismal forecast I'm upbeat.  Clusters of lilacs brush softly against the window screen.  The smell is heavenly.  I hear bees buzzing and birds chirping.  The seeds I planted with the children are beginning to sprout.  It's spring!

I've decided to try and tincture lily of the valley and lilacs this year.  I attempted to do this last year and didn't manage to have the time or enough flowers to complete the process.  This year I'm dedicated, I'm driven, I'm  . . . too late for the lilacs?  The trees are beginning to go by, the tips of the lilac bunches beginning to brown.  On the other hand, the lily of the valley is just beginning to bloom.  I have lots of lily.  Everywhere. It's taking over my small flower beds.  The strawberries and lily of the valley are fighting to see who will win the small side garden plot.

Every other day I take a basket outside and pick flowers.  I carry them inside and strip the blossoms from the stems taking care to remove any leaves or debris.  The blossoms go into mason jars and are filled with 190 proof alcohol.  The flowers quickly loose their color and become somewhat transparent within 24 hours.  I then filter the flowers out, pressing them to remove the alcohol and begin the process again.  Below are photos from the first round of tinctures.





First, pick the flowers
Lily of the Valley in basket - photo by Charna Ethier


Then strip the flowers from the stems and leaves and place in clean dry canning jar


Then add alcohol.  Done!  Remove flowers and add fresh blossoms.  Repeat.






I'm now on round number four.  The alcohol is no longer clear.  The lily tincture is a light green color.  The lilac tincture is slightly brown.  I have high hopes for these floral tinctures, but yet again I'm running out of time.  The lilacs in my yard are beginning to die.  The lilacs in my neighbors yard are withered and gone by.  The season is almost over and my tincture isn't as strong as I would like.  When I smell the liquid in the mason jar it has a distinct vegetal scent.  Bummer.  I was hoping for the prevalent aroma of lilacs and instead I smell wet grass.  As I filter out the last of the lilac blossoms, I splash the liquid on the counter and accidentally place my hand in it.  I second later I smell LILAC!  Hopefully, I sniff my lilac tincture again.  No lilac aroma.  Confused, it takes me a second to realize it's my hand that smells of lilacs.  The tincture when applied to the skin evaporates leaving the lingering aroma of lilacs.  I'm thrilled.  Not exactly what I was hoping for, but not the dud I had resigned myself to having created.  I hope I can continue my tincture again next year when lilac season comes around, making it stronger.  I plan on storing my lilac tincture in the refrigerator until next spring.

The lily of the valley tincture is more successful.  It's quite strong.  It smells exactly like the flowers and I am pleased.  I would not use the tincture in a commercial perfume as I've heard nasty rumblings of danger involved with lily of the valley.  As in POISONOUS.  I know the leaves can be poisonous if ingested in large quantities.  I find vastly disparate accounts on the dangers of the lily while surfing the web.  One site notes that, "The poisonous chemicals in the plant are generally located in the roots. leaves, stem and seeds" whereas other sites warn of imminent death upon picking.  My first thought is: Didn't the royal princess carry a bunch of lily of the valley in her bridal bouquet?  Quickly followed by: I picked handfuls of the flower as a child.  I wove crowns of lily of the valley and even remember an old picture of my brother and I lying in a field of the flowers as small children.  I certainly don't mean to sound nonchalant, but I'm here to tell you I've spent hours stripping lily flowers from stems and leaves by hand and I've lived to tell.  I've also spilled a good deal of the tincture on my hand (clumsy!) and didn't experience any hallucinations, dizziness, diarrhea or death, all of which are listed as possible side effects.  I find many accounts of people posting their pet became ill or died after ingesting lily of the valley.  I note many of these are goats and horses.  Heartbreaking.   My own dogs and cats seem to avoid the plant.  Doing a little research on the Internet I find that lily of the valley was used in the 1800's to treat heart conditions, but now has been replaced with stronger laboratory created drugs. Hmm.  I can practically hear my liability insurance quadrupling in price.

Lilacs growing in my tiny back yard -photo Charna Ethier


I have heard of a few natural perfumers who readily use lily of the valley tinctures in their perfumes, and perhaps I should speak to them.  I'd love to hear that my lily tincture is safe to use as it's beautifully fragranced.  However, sometimes these things are best left alone.  A sort of "don't ask, don't tell " type of unspoken agreement.  I would never "out" a perfumer who has been successfully using lily of the valley in his or her perfume creations without issue.  Jokes people, jokes.  Besides, what would I say, "Hey there, I remember you saying you used lily of the valley tincture in your perfumes.  I read it's poisonous.  Umm, how is that working out for you?"  Have no fear, I shall experiment on myself solely with the lily tincture.  Hopefully I won't be turned into some sort of monster ala Dr. Jeckyll and Mr. Hyde.  I can almost hear the tagline in my head: She was normal once, but after using herself as a test subject for dastardly experiments with deadly Lily of the Valley she's morphed into a MONSTER (insert evil villain laugh.)





All in all, I consider the spring flower tinctures a success.  Each time I tincture a particular botanical I learn something new, such as the best ratio of flowers to alcohol or that the darker purple lilacs result in a prettier purple tincture whereas the lighter pink-purple lilacs smell beautiful but turn the tincture an unattractive brown color.

One of my favorite things about using homemade tinctures in my perfumes is the personal stamp I am placing on my fragrance.  I'm assured that I have a highly original creation with my own blended concoctions.  No other perfumer may have a perfume created from New England grown lilacs and heirloom variety carrot seeds.  Just me, and it reflects my personal style and regional influence.  Additionally, I find using tinctures (particularly as the base for a perfume) allows the aroma to carry throughout the blend.  For example, by using a coriander tincture I am able to pull the gorgeous lemony spicy scent of coriander through the top, middle and base notes of the perfume whereas if I had simply used coriander essential oil, it would present as a top note and fade quickly.  I find this remarkable and incredibly exciting.

Sometimes I discover a tincture is a lot of work for little result.  I have countless duds to my credit.  Tinctures that took months of hard work with nothing to show.  I had great success tincturing freeze dried mango, only to find my second batch had very little aroma.  To be fair, I noticed the mango seemed almost scentless and lighter in color when I placed it in alcohol despite it being the same brand I had used previously.  Which leads me to a obvious point.  If a botanical doesn't smell before you tincture it, it most likely won't smell after you tincture it.  Look for the strongest smelling fruits, spices, flowers and herbs you can.  There are times  I would have been better off using the essential oil or absolute.  Tinctures are great extenders for rare and costly absolutes, not so great when they are deadly.

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Summer of Patchouli Love



I've been a busy bee lately.  I am participating in Perfume Pharmer's Summer Of Patchouli Love Perfume Project.  Along with 14 other perfumers, I am creating a patchouli based perfume which will be sampled, evaluated (gulp) and critiqued by a variety of bloggers, artists, critics or "noses", singers and performers.  Mary J. Blige will be sampling MY perfume!  

Here's the perfume project skinny:  All perfumes must be 100% natural.  Not a problem for moi as I only blend 100% natural perfumes.  All perfumers must use an alcohol base, and must create an eau de parfum at 15% strength--again no issues for me here, the stronger the better I say!  Finally, perfumes must be 25% patchouli . . . umm (insert needle scratching on a record sound.)  Possibly problematic?  While I use patchouli frequently in small quantities as part of a base accord, I rarely use that MUCH patchouli.  25% patchouli is quite a bit of patchouli.  That's some serious PASSION for PATCHOULI PERFUME.

Once we participating perfumers have created our amazing patchouli perfumes, they are shipped to Monica Miller the coordinator and author of Perfume Pharmer.  She then decants samples labeling them #1, #2 and so on so judges have no clue who has created what.  No nepotism here folks!  Numbered samples are then mailed off to the judges.  Judges will then determine their favorites.  Despite the fact that some serious heavy hitters of the perfume world are reviewing the perfumes publicly I'm still swooning over the celebrities.  Did I mention I read Us Weekly at the gym?  Sad.  Patti Austin, Mary J Blige, and Jodie Foster will be smelling my patchouli perfume!

Reviews of perfumes will be posted online beginning June.  More details to come.  Click on the link above to learn more.  


Thursday, April 21, 2011

The Perfumer, the Passion, and a Parent -An Intimate Interview with Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co.



I was recently interviewed by Felicia Hazard from Fragrance Belles-Lettres.  Click on the link to read the transcript of our discussion.  http://fragrancebelleslettres.blogspot.com/2011/04/providence-perfume-company-with-charna.html
Thank you Felicia for your kind words and coverage of Indie Perfumers!

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Botanical of the Day: Coffee Flower



Hurrah!  Coffee Flower Absolute is back!  I can almost hear you groaning.  Commence eye rolling!  Yes, I was a little obsessed with the beautiful, delicate floral aroma of Coffee Flower last year.  And yes, I professed my love freely and whenever possible.  Then as quickly as I discovered this amazing botanical for perfumery, this coffee flower absolute, it disappeared.  I could not locate the essence from any supplier ANYWHERE.  I searched and searched to no avail.  I publicly whined and bemoaned my fate.  But, drum roll please . . . it's back!  Thanks to a tip from a reader (I told you I've been very vocal about my love and loss of coffee flower) I checked back at Liberty Naturals website and low and behold the big red letters reading "OUT OF STOCK" that have been posted across the top of the web page for the last two years have been removed.  Eureka!
Of course I immediately placed an order.  My coffee flower absolute from Madagascar has arrived.  It smells very similar to the coffee flower I had ordered a few years back.  It's an amber colored oil, with a bit more viscosity than I expected.  It's expensive.  It's beautiful.  It's mine!
The aroma of coffee flower is often described as being jasmine like, or redolent of orange blossom. I must admit I don't really get the comparison.  Coffee flower smells unlike anything else.  If I had to draw a parallel, it is a bit similar to jasmine sambac.  It's sweet and round and complex.  I can get hints of overripe fruit, with a very faint whisper of espresso, almost a hint of burned coffee hidden behind the floral notes.  To me, coffee flower has a cool floral element.  Whereas jasmine grandiflorum and orange blossom absolute smell "warm" to me, coffee flower smells "cool."  Along these lines, I've found it blends very well with green watery botanicals such as violet leaf, cassia and mimosa.  Together coffee flower and mimosa create a lily of the valley like scent.  I can't get enough coffee flower!  I recently made a beautiful solid perfume called Moon Flower with coffee flower absolute blended with tuberose, frangipani, bitter orange and sandalwood.  


coffee flower


When researching the coffee flower I stumbled across the Illy Coffee website.  According to Illy,  
"The coffee plant, a shrub of the Rubiaceae family, is tropical by nature and requires a hot and humid climate to thrive. Three to four years after the coffee is planted, rains trigger the blossoming of brilliant white flowers with a sweet jasmine or orange-like fragrance.  Dense clusters of flowers grow at the base of dark green, oval leaves, enriching the entire plantation with their perfume.
The coffee flowers are short-lived and wither after a few days, bringing forth the fruit, or cherries, which change color from green to red as they ripen.  Arabica cherries take about seven months to reach the optimal stage of ripeness while Robusta cherries average 10 months.  The cherry is a drupe (a fruit containing one or more seeds surrounded by a fleshy layer of protective tissue) that usually contains two grooved, semi-oval cherrystones (seeds) lying with their flat faces together—the future green coffee beans.  Each bean is surrounded by a silver-colored membrane and enclosed in a tougher skin called the parchment.  The small, grooved seeds are the only part used for producing coffee: the future green coffee bean.
The blossoming cycle and maturation of coffee plants is not determined by the seasons; rather, the coffee plant blossoms after each rainfall and therefore a single plant can contain flower blossoms, unripe fruit and ripe fruit all at the same time." http://www.illy.com/wps/wcm/connect/us/illy/the-world-of-coffee/origin-and-blend/blossoming/


According to lore, the scent of coffee flower is so powerful sailors could smell the flowers blooming 2 miles out at sea!  How I would love to visit a coffee plantation and smell the flowers in bloom!  Many descriptions of the powerful aroma of coffee flower include the terms "narcotic" and "intoxicating."  Author Frances De Pontes Peebles who left her life in the city to help manage her family's organic coffee farm in Northeast Brazil described this in a blog post titled Coffee Flower Intoxication.  She writes, "On Sunday the coffee trees flowered. Actually, buds have been around for a few weeks now but the flowers finally opened. It looks like snow has fallen on the farm. And the smell! The air smells like jasmine and it’s so strong that it’s (literally) intoxicating. After breathing this coffee-flower-air all night, I woke in a stupor. It was hard to move, hard to open my eyes, hard to even think about waking up. This was Land of the Lotus Eaters stuff. This was Serpent and the Rainbow zombie-making type stuff. The flowers are already losing their smell and wilting a bit. We’re hoping for rain in the next few weeks, to give the coffee trees enough energy to turn those fertilized flowers into beans."  http://francesdepontespeebles.com/blog/tag/coffee-flower/
Ahh, sounds like heaven to me!  A coffee flower hangover!  I can almost hear you groaning.  I know, I know--I'm a little obsessed.  Anyone out there currently fixated with an essence?  Feel free to share your obsession.  Maybe you can wean me off my coffee flower!


Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Natural Perfume Blending Classes Offered in NYC



What's prettier than New York City in May?  Imagine strolling along Riverside Drive, smelling the flowers and taking in Spring!  I will be teaching two classes on May 6 & 7 on basic and intermediate blending techniques in Manhattan at 711 Amsterdam Ave.  A variety of topics will be included from accessory notes and creating tinctures to building accords and labeling and aging.  For more information or to enroll, please visit NYC Blending Natural Perfumes with Charna Ethier